DIY: Mens Kimono/Noragi Pt. 1 Pattern Drafting.

Friday, January 08, 2016

* Not really beginner level, I tried to make it as simple as possible.

The Overgarment blocks ( jersey fabrics ).
The first instructions given are for a basic fit (e.g. track suits); the instructions brackets are the extra measurements required to construct blocks for easier fitter jersey overgarments.
Body sections.
Square down and across from 0.
0-1 Back neck to waist plus 1cm; square across.
0-2 Finished length; square across.
0-3 Scye depth plus 3cm (5cm); square across.
0-4 1/2 measurement 0-3; square across.
0-5 1/4 measurement 0-4; square across.
0-6 1/5 neck size; square up.
6-7 1.5 cm; draw in back neck curve.
3-8 Half back plus 2.5cm (3.5); square up to 9 and 10.
10-11 0.75cm; join 7-11.
3-12  1/4 chest plus 4.5cm (6cm); square down to 13.
Draw in armhole curve from through 11 to 9-12.
0-14 1/5 neck size minus 1.5cm; draw in front neck.
Back and front sections are the same shape except for the neck curves.

15-16 1/2 measurement 0-3; square across.
15-17 Sleeve length required; square across.
15-18 Measurement of diagonal line from 11-12 on body section plus 2.5cm; square down to 19.
18-20 1/3 measurement 18-15. Draw in sleeve head, 18-20 curve in 0.75cm; 20-15 curve out 2cm.
17-21 1/2 close wrist measurement plus6cm (7cm); join 18-21 with a curve if required.

Front body section.
From here on i will tell you how i edited the flat blocks into the kimono i designed.

Take 1/4 measurement of 3-12 extend out at waist/centre front, square down. * This will be the piece that overlap each other when closed.
2 From the new extended piece connect it to neck curve.
3 Measure from bottom up how big you want the slit to be, and put a marking.
4 Eye ball with your hands how big and where you want the pocket to be.
5 Draw in pocket, mine is 16cm width x 20cm height.
6 Put markings to where the pocket should be.
7 Add 1cm(2cm); seam allowance. !My kimono will have a double folded hemming of 2cm so my bottom seam allowance is 4cm!
8 At the slit I also put extra seam allowance, because there I will also use double folded hemming.
9 Add a straight line to guide you to the grain line so you can all the patterns straight onto fabric.

Back body section.
The Back body piece will be super simple.

1 Add the same side slit marking from front piece.
2 Add seam 1cm (2cm) allowance. !bottom 4cm! *Same as front piece* At centre back line no seam allowance, we will be pinning that on the fabric fold!!
3 Add grain line.

1 Measure back neck and front neck curve. That is your collar length Keep in mind collar will be double the length when finished.
2 depending on how high you want the collar to stand, that is your height. mine is 3cm.
3 double up the height measurement.
4 add 1cm (2cm); seam allowance except on one short side that will be the centre line (fabric fold).
5 add grain line.

1 Pocket width 16cm.
2 Pocket height 20cm.
3 pocket lining 3cm.
4 Add 3cm on top of pocket, that will be your back lining.
5 add 1cm (2cm); seam allowance.
6 Add marking on top fold.
7 Add 1cm (2cm); seam allowance.
8 Add grain line.

This part is actually optional. I wanted to add a seam on the sleeve to make it less boring. And at the bottom it will have a slit.

1 Measure from front piece from armhole to waist line.
2 Measure how big you want the slit to be at wrist on bottom sleeve.
3 Cut pieces.
4 Add 1cm (2cm); seam allowance. At bottom and side slit of sleeve add 4cm seam allowance for double folded hemming.

And thats all you guys. Write on all your piece what they are so you will easily find them and put markings here and there so you know where goes what.
Good luck!!



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